HARLEY, INTO HIGH GEAR (2024)

He's a guy with no use for a MasterCard.

Or a black leather bandanna for $24.95.

Knight's smile is tolerant, though. If there's one thing Harley riders have, it's loyalty, because, as Knight says, nobody messes with Willie G.

Willie G. Davidson, the grandson of one of the founding Davidson brothers, is in a unique position as "executive vice president of styling" for his company. His job is to appeal to Harley-Davidson's wide and wild range of the faithful -- from ex-Marine Ralph Knight to tycoon Malcolm Forbes.

Davidson has to keep all these people happy -- with bikes as well as clothes -- and court new customers too.

He laughs at his own company's new MasterCard deal. "Everyone's got a gold card. Next, we're going to do a chrome card."

His daughter, Karen, a fashion coordinator who works with him, recalls her parents' 1987 ride down Wall Street on their monster Harleys when the company was listed on the New York Stock Exchange.

That ride was a harbinger of rubbie things to come.

That same year, Harley-Davidson joined the ranks of Fortune 500 companies. Now there's no end of Harley things to look after.

Working with her father, Karen Davidson coordinates clothing from company headquarters in Milwaukee, for 600 franchise dealerships.

She also keeps an eye on the licensees making Harley-Davidson sneakers and other items, which sell in posh stores such as Bloomingdale's and in countries such as France, West Germany, Sweden and Greece.

"There's a long-lasting, rugged appeal we like to portray with basic-style riding leathers," she says.

Sales from the MotorClothes and Collectibles catalogue increased 20 percent from 1988 to 1989. (The company won't say how much money that is.)

What people are buying into is the "mystique" that Karen Davidson describes as "that hard, fast feel of motorcycles as a break to freedom."

John Valentine, owner of Harley-Davidson of Santa Ana, Calif., says, "See any girls wearing Yamaha shirts? Nah. The Harley logo makes a statement that's hot: good quality, American, brotherhood and a good time."

"It's the American name," says Kelly Bogan, a co*cktail waitress from Huntington Beach, Calif. Thumbs go up when Bogan zooms by on her red 1500 cc Harley. She dresses head to toe in helmet and leathers for safety. You can tell she's female only by the bright red nails sticking out of her fingerless leather gloves.

Rick Elkins, owner of Cycle World stores in Orange County, Calif., says leather is fashionable right now, whether or not it's by Harley-Davidson. He sells less expensive leathers than the Harley brand. Elkins offers a plain black leather blazer for $179.95, compared with $300 and up for a fancier Harley jacket.

"In Bullock's to May Company to Robinson's to Sears, you see women buying leather pants. They don't ride Harleys. They just want the look. Go to the movies on a Friday or Saturday night, I'll bet one out of 10 guys will have a leather jacket on," Elkins says.

"The Harley guy is not the guy with tattoos anymore. The Harley guy is a white-collar guy. Many of their bikes cost as much as $15,000," Elkins adds.

"I think for sure we've got a whole new segment of population who think it's okay to ride a Harley, just like riding a Honda was in 1970," says Bill Bartels of Bartels'Harley-Davidson in Culver City, Calif. "You don't have to be a criminal to ride one," Bartels says.

Bartels named Poison, Motley Crue, Eric Clapton, Billy Idol and Heart as a few Harley-oriented rock-and-roll bands and stars.

Arnold Schwarzenegger, Sylvester Stallone and Mickey Rourke are actors with tough-guy images riding around on Harleys, "and a lot of the soap actresses -- the younger ones," Bartels adds.

Actresses Priscilla Presley and Kirstie Alley are Harley riders, and Elizabeth Taylor was presented with a Harley by Malcolm Forbes.

"If you're in Hollywood, you've got to make a strong statement," Willie G. Davidson says from Milwaukee.

"The look came from a functional need. Leather has protective advantages over other types of materials, and certainly longevity. On a motorcycle, you're in wind, rain, snow, sand and salt -- you take everything imaginable. Leather lasts forever. It migrated from cowboy chaps to riding gear. Somewhere along the way, it was embellished. It gained studs, it gained fringe, it gradually turned into rock-and-roll wear and then into New York boutiques... . You enjoy wearing these things because it's beyond function into fashion."

Davidson collects antique Indian war shirts and cowboy clothes, as well as motorcycle leathers. "I have them all in the same room. They all relate. Every one of them relates."

He was inspired by these antique articles and the craftsmanship of "Dirty Bill" Hampton from Roan Mountain, Tenn., when he designed the Willie G. leather jackets and chaps with braiding, lacing and fringe with silver conchos.

"The goal was to have them look handmade. It's almost historical, that type of look," Davidson says.

"It's an escape thing," he adds, explaining the popularity of motorcycle outfits. "You don't wear Willie G. chaps to work. You're not supposed to. It's a hobby. It's fun. Maybe it takes you away from things that drive you nuts. You put on your beautiful duds and hop on your beautiful bike and head out on the open road and have an adventure."

And if you don't own a Harley or have any road adventures, or back yard adventures or even office adventures, it's good to know you can dress as if you do.

If you're not born to ride, at least you can be born to shop -- with a chrome card.